How to Measure Your Horse's Girth
colonial saddlery is a manufacturer and exporter of fine leather equestrian products out of India. Offerings include english, western, and australian sadles, girths, bridles, reins, halters, headstalls, harnesses, bits, breastplates, martinglaes, horse boots, horse blankets and more. Are you wondering what size girth your horse needs? Most horses fall between a size 28inch – 34inch, but you can calculate for your horse. Figuring the girth size is a simple process with a tape measure and calculator. Asking someone to assist you makes it a bit easier and eliminates trying to .
The girth is a pivotal part of your tack. The wrong size or material can mean sores, an unhappy horse or a slipping saddle. Here are a few of my favorite English girth options. I only bought this one a few months ago so I can speak to longevity just yet but so far I love it!
I wanted to test a fleece girth since my fleece girth cover kept slipping and this how to make window treatments roman shades like a good one for the price. It feels like nice quality and so far has held up to hours of trail riding. The aesthetic is nice, many fleece covers I tried stuck out and looked sloppy but this has a rather low key look. The elastic on both ends is a big plus as well since we are going into the Spring and I am sure my horse will putting on some pounds.
Before my recent fleece girth purchase I swore by the neoprene girths. I had one that lasted for years. It was more difficult finding the correct size but once I did my pony seemed very pleased it. The grip on neoprene girths seem to hold up better and are good for round boys with low withers. My first girth ever was a similar one to this from Dover. It lasted so incredibly long and was amazing quality.
I like experimenting with other styles but a nice, well made leather one is hard to beat. Once again what size girth for my horse double elastic girth is nice as in the Northeast we go through different weight cycles with our horses in between seasons. The overall look is quite high end and is perfect for shows or fox hunts. I did have to use what size girth for my horse fleece cover on my older horse has the leather gave her rubs but my baby horse has not had an issue whatsoever.
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Measuring Heart Girth
May 01, · Use the following formula to calculate the girth size — The measurement of your horse’s heart girth is divided by 2 and then subtract by 3. May 01, · The girth is a pivotal part of your tack. The wrong size or material can mean sores, an unhappy horse or a slipping saddle. Here are a few of my favorite (English) girth options. If you’re unsure about what size to purchase, check out our post on choosing the right girth size for your horse found Here. Perri’s Nylon Fleece Girth, Brown. If you know your horse’s girth size and you need to switch between a long and a short girth, add or subtract 20 inches. For example, if you use a inch girth with your jumping saddle, you should try a inch girth with your dressage saddle. Styles and Types of Girths.
Tree width is the number one metric riders use when trying to determine if a saddle will fit their horse.
While these statements in many cases are true, they are also incomplete. There are two more super important factors in fitting trees:. How does this tree size effect the balance of the saddle longitudinally front-to-back? The red line in the image below shows the tree point, which starts at the top of the tree head pommel and goes to the end of the point:. Saddles are made with all kinds of varying tree point lengths.
This is because a high wither horse will need a different tree than a mutton-withered pony. Long tree points will allow more flexibility in fitting high wither horses, while short points are often good for low wither horses because they keep the saddle from perching off the back. The simplest way to check the contact is to girth your saddle TIGHT, then run your hand down the front of your saddle under the panels and see if there are any acute points of pressure. One mistake a lot of people make is to feel under the tree when they are on their horse.
If you want to feel the saddle with a person in it, ask a friend to sit balanced in the seat on your horse so you can get an accurate feel!
Now on to point number two. The longitudinal balance of the saddle often gets overlooked as riders tend to focus more on the front of the tree and the width associated with it N,M,MW,W,XW. Not only does the tree width need to be right to fit behind the shoulders, but it also has to keep the saddle balanced. Out of love for their horse, many riders opt for overly wide tree sizes with the hope of protecting their horse or giving him a lot of space. While it is certainly better to err a little on the wide side rather than too narrow , the mark is often over shot.
Then the saddle ends up somewhat ironically doing the opposite of what the rider wants by being too low in the front and distributing too much weight right behind the shoulders! So be sure you check on whether the saddle sits balanced with a rider in it…meaning are the shoulders, hips and ankles lined up along the vertical?
A friend with a camera can help you be the judge. Good luck out there! What you said made a lot of sense. But, think about this, what if you added a little content? I mean, I dont want to tell you how to run your blog, but what if you added something to maybe get peoples attention?
Just like a video or a picture or two to get people excited about what youve got to say. In my opinion, it would make your blog come to life a little bit. I appreciate the suggestion. Did the picture of the saddle tree not come up on your computer? Or would you prefer addition visuals on top of that? The picture of the saddle tree does not come up on my computer — not sure why.
It would be helpful to see someone doing this live, though. Just in case, here is a link to the image:. And you can see it at this link as well:. As for the picture, I am not sure what happened. But I just added it back to the article.
Also, you can view it at this link just in case:. I have a fairly narrow TB with high withers. Is this bad? Sometimes jump saddle flaps will go forward for the riders leg, which is normal. This will let you know that the tree is not interfering with his shoulders. If the part over his shoulder is hard or leaving a lot of pressure, then we may have an issue.
It has always amazed me how many horses there are at top level competitions competing sore. It is sad for sure. But I think the sport as a whole is getting better and more knowledgeable about the importance of saddle fit… just think 20 years ago the term saddle fit barely existed!
Thanks Joy it is so great to hear that you enjoyed the article! Thanks for taking the time to comment. My question is what brands have any of you found to be best fitting for a high wither sloping down to a wide shoulder?
My ottb has great conformation aside this oh so frustrating trait. Thank you in advanced! Thanks for the question. The best way to look at it in your case is by tree point length and angle. As long as you find a saddle with a long tree point and an open head, you will be in good shape for wither clearance. The long points allow for wither clearance while making contact in a safe place on the back. The open head design will keep from causing acute pressure points where the tree point makes contact with the back.
Hope this helps! Is there a way for consumers to get these specs that you know of? As for the situation where you are buying a saddle without a sales rep, you can get a rough idea by comparing one saddle to another. In most cases the the old one will have much shorter points. You can feel this by bending the panels of the saddle in the front. The end of the rigid area is the end of the tree point.
Now this is not a precisely scientific way to compare, but it will give you an idea of the relative differences between each saddle you try.
To Vague not enough info.. Hi Sheena, Thanks for the constructive criticism. Every horse, saddle and situation is very unique. If you have specific questions about your situation please email care totalsaddlefit. My horse is an Icelandic and while the saddle seems to fit in all the above mentioned points, it slips to the side while I ride. This is very annoying for me and the horse. Often a wider gullet, with broad panels can help this. In addition to this, it is important to make sure the panels are soft enough to mold to his body as opposed to dense bubbly panels that make minimal contact and create a stable foundation.
I am at a loss. She has a broad short back. Withers are at a 90 degree angle. Her withers are low with little height above her scapulae. Her shoulder blades stick quite far out like a football player with shoulder pads. Her ribs carry a lot of meat quite high up on her body. And, her shoulders are long and sit farther back than her girth groove. Her lower back lifts when she moves and she has long, powerful hind legs. This shoves the saddle even farther forward onto her shoulders.
She also slopes slightly down hill to her withers. It is a viscious cycle. If I girth her up tight it is worse. The saddle that works best is an old MW Albion cross country saddle that has the tree points angled out and that sit on the top of the panel rather than integrated in the panel. Can you help? Any advice is much appreciated! Hi Denise, Sorry to hear about your saddle fit challenge. From the sound of it, she seems prone to pull a saddle over her shoulders regardless of the fit.
Now you certainly want a good fitting saddle, and likely a saddle designed for a pony build would be your best bet. It would sit more stable than a typical saddle for a TB or Warmblood, which is a big element of keeping a saddle in place. Now in terms of making do with what you have, I would strongly suggest one of our Shoulder Relief Girths. This will give her up to 2 inches of extra shoulder clearance right away, and for a much more affordable price than a new saddle.
Very helpful article! One question I do have is…. As I do a lot of jumping at quite a substantial height I need a jumping saddle, is this a problem? Hi Sam, It sounds like you may benefit from one or two changes to your saddle. First I would take a look at where your billets attach.
If they are in the rear half of the saddle, you could have them reattached farther forward on the tree. This will help keep them from pulling your saddle forward. The V shape which is standard and the hoop tree which most Arabians need and other low withered round barreled horses need.
Also might be a solution for warmblood mentioned above. Great point Julie!
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