Beginner’s guide to Smocking Fabric – Techniques and patterns
Sep 12, · "Learn how to do smocking with your sewing machine, which thread and stitches to use and what you can used your smocked fabric for. "Click here for the Sewing Pattern. Project Type Learn a Technique. Time to Complete In an evening. Sewn by Machine. Apr 27, · Select the decorative stitches on the sewing machine and sew ?” apart. End the knot on each stitches by hand and lightly press with an iron to finish. A smocking technique is where the fabric is gathered and decorative embroidery patterns by a sewing machine are applied to create the stretch.
Realistically it is a little bit difficult to do than other embroidery work but the effort is worth it. Hope you also find some value from it and start smocking all the fabric in sight. Table of Contents Table of Contents What is smocking? Which fabric is best for smocking? How much extra cloth is needed to do smocking? Which thread is best for smocking? How to prepare fabric for smocking?
How to gather fabric for smocking? Basic rules of smocking Steps to smocking. Smocking is a design technique to control the fullness in a piece of fabric, with beautiful embroidery stitches. To do smocking, regular gathers or pleats are taken on the fabric with long stitches on the back and very small stitches in the front.
Most of the time other embroidery details like flower designs are done along with smocking. Linen, crepe, silk, lawn cotton, ginghams, velvet, chiffon, laceknits. You name the fabric and it has been smocked by women in earlier times.
A light to medium weight evenly woven fabric with a smooth surface is ideal for smocking. You can choose plain or printed cotton, poplin, how to save money at disney lawn, silk, satin, cotton blends, organdie, lightweight denim and lightweight wool blends. A beginner can choose a checked cotton fabric as there is already a guideline for you to gather the fabric evenly. I am assuming that you do not have a pleater. A knit fabric or a velvet fabric as a first project would be difficult to tackle.
A plain how to sew smocking with sewing machine can also be taken, if the guidelines yow the pleats are correctly made. You need atleast 3 times the cloth for the width of the final piece. But then it also depends on the tightness of the smocking stitches. If you make very slack stitches the cloth needed will be less. Add the seam allowance as well.
How to sew smocking with sewing machine stitches are done with regular embroidery thread. On silk clothes use silk thread and on cotton fabric use cotton thread. I love to use Pearl cotton thread for smocking as it has a nice sheen to it and the 2 ply thread is thick enough to stand out.
Colour of the thread — A simple colour scheme works what is the exchange server for outlook for smocking, which should look elegant rather than tacky. Pastel colours works best on light coloured fabric. Keep the thread two strands of the thread near your fabric to see if it suits. One or two colours, two or three shades of the same colour are all preferred for smocking.
I use three strands of thread for the smocking stitches; for a thicker effect you can choose four strands. I love the luster of cotton Perle thread for smocking. It is true that unwashed fabric looks best when smocked but shrinking of fabric is a possibility. So prewashing the fabric is necessary. Take the cloth along the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Professionals add a light fusible interfacing to hold the pleats, especially for thin fabric.
There are how to activate print spooler service ways you can gather the fabric.
Machine gathering is easy. Checkout this post on gathering fabric. Make basting stitches smockkng gather. But the problem is that machine gathering doesnot give even pleats. It is how to lease car for business very important that you get even gathering ; which means the pleat on the first row and the second row should be the same for all gathering.
The pleats should all line up vertically This is the most important thing that qualifies the beauty of smocking. If you have a pleater all the problem goes away.
The pleater does the job beautifully. Hand pleating is the next best option, though it tests your patience. A smocking transfer available in the market can make this process easier.
The smocking transfer consists of a series of evenly spaced dots on a paper which can be transferred to the fabric with heat. You get different types of smocking transfers with differences in the spacing of how to get a high appraisal on your home dots. For very fine cloth small spacings are more suitable and this will give shallow pleats.
How to use the smocking transfer? Hand smockjng — Marking the dots yourself is the next option; a slightly cumbersome task but for a passionate sewist who wants to smock very badly this is the best option, unless you are doing the smocking on a checked fabric. Measure and mark the dots with a ruler and pencil on the wrong side of the work. You have to ensure that each stitch is set directly under the same stitch in the row above and the rows of stitching are all same distance apart.
Make running stitches through the dots and at the end of wihh row leave thread tails hanging down. Gather the fabric. Tie two thread tails each at the end, making sure the pleats are tight. Cut off the thread tails. Step 1. After the fabric is gathered count your pleats.
You need an even number of pleats. Now mark the center two pleats. The center of your smocking hlw actually the valley how to get muscle and lose fat these smockjng pleats. You can make a mark at this place with a small stitch or using smockong chalk. This is a very important step in smocking. Step 2. Skip the first gathering row for smocking stitches.
You can use this row as a guide sewinng the further stitching. Also Leave 3 pleats to either side — to account for seam allowance. Smockng you have already left seam allowance do not bother. Step 3.
Come up from the side of the third pleat or the first pleat if you have already left seam allowance. Bring the needle up through the left-hand valley of the next pleat. Insert the needle back through the first pleat — the one you will be starting the stitch with from left to right keeping the needle parallel to the gathering thread. I assume you will be working from how to fingerstyle on guitar to right.
Left hos people will be working from right to left. I always start with a row of stem stitches first to hold the gathered fabric in place. You can make one or two rows of stem stitches like this to hold the gathers firmly in place. Step 4. Do the smocking stitches. The common smocking how to sew smocking with sewing machine are described and illustrated below.
Smocking stitches. The most frequently used smocking stitches are. This resembles a rope. How to sew smocking with sewing machine is made the same way as the embroidery stem stitch. Usually this stitch is used at the beginning of the smocking — as it holds the gathers tightly. Each stem stitch picks one pleat of the fabric and joins it to the next one.
Bring up the needle through the first pleat, to the left of the pleat. Pick up the next pleatat an angle and come up at the middle of the two pleats. Continue doing the same thing. Remember that the thread will be se two pleats. One important thing to remember as you make the Outline stitch is to always hold the thread in the up position xewing each stitch above the placement of the needle. In the stem stitch the thread is in the down position.
Wheat stitch. Smcoking stitch is a combination of the outline stitch and the stem stitch. First the outline stitch with the thread in the up position is made what months do babies get shots then immediately under it the stem stitch is made — the second row of stitches is made basically in the same spot but just underneath.
This creates a wheat shape pattern, with a slight angling of the needle. Cable stitch.
What is smocking stitch?
Smocking by sewing machine. When your fabric is prepared, sew parallel rows of decorative stitches across the surface of the gathers. Use the gathering stitches as a guide for making straight rows and work in between them (if you trap them with your decorative stitches they . How to Smock With a Sewing Machine Step 1. Mark lines on the fabric that you want to smock using a yardstick or straight edge. These lines are marked about Step 2. Wind elastic thread around a bobbin by hand. There should be no or as little tension as possible in the thread, Step 3. Thread the. Jul 14, · Honeycomb smocking is a beautiful embellishment design of pleated diamonds for an extra special look. WEBSITE: facetimepc.co BLOG: Author: Professor Pincushion.
Posted on April 27, Categories Sewing Tips. By: Author Soonjoo. Do you know how to sew smocking so that the bunching turns out nicely? Smocking is a kind of embroidery that forms a decorative pattern on your garment with fullness and elasticity. Whether you are adding detail around the neckline or sleeves, smocking is a technique that helps the fabric to hug comfortably on your body.
It provides both decoration and functional support to the garment. How do you sew smocking on a sewing machine? Prepare the fabric by pre-washing and use a pleater machine to gather the fabric. End the knot on each stitches by hand and lightly press with an iron to finish. A smocking technique is where the fabric is gathered and decorative embroidery patterns by a sewing machine are applied to create the stretch.
This was used for providing elasticity in a garment before elastic came into being. With these sewing tips, you will be able to add smocking stitches on cotton or linen fabric to add to your warm weather friendly DIY clothing.
In this article, you will understand the basic term of smocking stitch and what is the difference between shirring. In addition, what are the correct steps to sew smocking and what type of stitches works best for smocking on the garment. Smocking stitches always go from the left towards the right. For a smocking stitch, bring the needle from the backside up to the left side of the first pleat. Now take the needle over to the next pleat and insert the needle through from right to left at an angle, the thread should be below the needle.
Repeat this process until you reach the end or finish of the stitch. Smocking stitches are made using a crewel embroidery needle. This needle uses silk or a cotton thread, which is thrice the initial material width. Smocking stitches differ in tightness and require a stronger thread. Begin the smocking stitch with a guide of marked dots or a grid pattern on the underside of the fabric. Thus, the markings are hidden from the outside.
The fabric is gathered with temporary hand stitches using a running stitches forming cable stitches, similar to basting stitches. They are knotted at the end for later removal, and the smocking stitches are worked over these rows in different patterns.
However, 4 of the smocking stitches are most popular and widely used for smocking a garment. There are variation of smocking stitches that hold the gathering in a decorative way. Depending on the style and look that you desire, select the types of sewing machine stitch to apply to the smocked garment. Smocking is an embroidery technique that gathers the fabric and then secures the pleats with a decorative stitch that provides a stretch. Shirring is a technique of gathering multiple stitched rows to shrink the fabric size and provide elasticity.
Understand the difference between smocking or shirring by looking and studying them closely. The word shirring and smocking are used interchangeably in fashion industry. Smocking and shirring is visually identifiable by decorative, extra stitching or elastic thread.
Choose the best method to execute for your garment, but understand the differences from a design and structural perspective. Yes, you can do smocking on a modern sewing machine. Modern sewing machines provide a range of decorative stitches to create a smocking effect.
When you prepare fabric, sew decorative stitches in rows and parallel to each other across the gathering surface. Gather fabric using gathering stitches to work in between them. Do not trap the overlapping decorative stitches as it becomes tough to remove them afterwards. With several different decorative stitches on the sewing machine, it is really fun to create the smocking effect.
As a beginner, smocking detail may look overwhelming and difficult to achieve store-bought quality. However, with the right tool and technique, you can stitch smocking using any sewing machine.
Always follow the sewing instruction and gather tools to get it started. Thread the sewing machine and thread the bobbin the correct way to avoid any problems such as jamming the machine or breaking the needle as you sew. These are basic steps every sewer needs to be comfortable with prior to starting any sewing project. The number of pleats for one inch should be multiplied by the finished fabric width. For instance, 10 pleats for one inch for finished smocking width of 20 inches is equal to pleats.
Depending on the fabric type being used, you may need more or less based on the weight. When you read a sewing pattern , the cover page should indicate how much fabric you need for a specific pattern. However, if you are making smocking from scratch without a pattern , use this smocking calculation method for best results.
Understanding smocking techniques helps you to speed up the process, there are some contemporary smocking machines and tools to efficiently reduce sewing time. Use a pleating machine for smocking with a square grid to create a pattern. When using this machine, work on the reverse side of the fabric to form fabric volume on the right side of the clothing.
Consider pinning the garment on an ironing board and steaming to shape the fabric to the desired sizing. Smocking is a traditional embroidery technique that gathers fabric together into tight pleats so that it can naturally stretch and return to its shape.
Often it is used as a form of decorative purposes on a garment, which is different than shirring. Select appropriate fabric and prepare by pre-washing so that the fabric is able to shrink.
Cotton, silk or lightweight materials are ideal for smocking, however denim, leather or velvet heavy weight fabric are not recommended. Set the sewing machine up to the right settings and have a suitable thread to handle the bunching or pleating. Transfer the smocking on a sheet of paper with evenly spaced dots that shows pleat points.
Check the hand-marked points so it is ready to begin gathering. Simply pull the thread gently so that the running stitch gathers the fabric evenly. When the pleats are pulled tightly secure the thread ends by knotting each row.
Choose outline, zigzag, diamond, wave, or cable stitch on the sewing machine and slide your pleated fabric through the machine. Make sure that the lines are sewn straight. Smocking technique is not nearly as difficult as it looks. From dresses to peasant blouses, you can add smocking with various decorative designs and patterns to enhance your creativity. My name is Soonjoo. I am a fashion designer with great ideas, strategies and techniques.
This website is full of sewing patterns, easy DIY clothing projects and practical tips to transform old clothes into new clothes whether you are new to sewing or advanced level. Articles are written by fashion designers, experts, professionals, DIY clothing makers and me. Please see my disclosure to learn more. Share Tweet Pin Email. This is the beginner stitch in smocking and holds the gathered fabric tightly.
One fabric pleat is picked and joined to the subsequent one with a stem stitch. Stem stitch :Bring the needle up through the initial pleat and then towards the left side of the pleat. With the subsequent pleat at an angle, come up to the center of the second pleats, this stitch is over 2 pleats.
Wheat stitch :This stitch combines stem and outline stitches. Initially outline stitch is in the up position and then stem stitch is made under it in the same spot. Cable stitch : It is the same as the stem stitch with the difference being that the thread position to the needle is alternated. It is worked from the left to the right for right handed and right to the left if you are left-handed.
Follow the below steps to stitch smocking: Prepare fabric : Build up equally spaced stitch lines in parallel rows.
Gather the fabric with stitching rows to make a bed of tucks for sewing on. Select contrasting colors since it is easier to remove them later. Make use of a pleater machine : With a pleater machine , it becomes all the easier to make pleats with fabric feeding onto threaded needles with crimped barrels to prepare a bed of tucks all the more conveniently. Thread the row of needles, feed the fabric behind and rotate the barrels by turning the handle. The emerging fabric is pleated with a bed of tucks, then pull the threads to begin stitching.
Use decorative stitches : Select the decorative stitches to work on with a sewing machine to give a smocky effect. Test on a scrap of already pleated fabric to try different decorative stitches to find the best look for the garment. Some of the smocky effect stitches using a sewing machine include: Stretch stitch recreates cable stitch. Use together in rows to give a diamond stitch. Follow the steps to calculate the amount of fabric for smocking: To calculate the fabric width for smocking.
Get the item width that you want to smock like a blouse or dress. Say for a blouse, you have to measure the armpit width and add in seam allowance for either side. Figure pleat width for a total width of fabric required. Calculate some pleats for getting compressed fabric width. Lighter fabrics will need more pleats per inch as compared to linens or heavy cotton.
The next step is to calculate the number of pleats, then multiply this number by one inch by finished fabric width. How to Sew Princess Seam.
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