24. Framing an Arch or Curve on Your Deck
In order to build a curved deck, you use a series of angled dropped beams, posts and footings to support cantilevered joists that will extend across the curved or round section of the arc. Joists are usually allowed to cantilever a beam by 2' without hiring an engineer. Sep 28, · I believe when constructing a composite deck, to build a frame that will last. We fully tape all our decks, and use composite posts or ground screws to build on. The decks been fixed down with the Trex hidden clip system, and pro plugs colour matched on the curved picture frame. The front curved boards been attached with colour matched screws.
According to an old saying, every man must build a house, plant a tree and raise a son…. I wanted a challenge! A deck is a place to enjoy the outdoors, an extra living and entertaining area. It enhances your house and lifestyle. A place to BBQ and watch the kids play in the yard. Are you up for the challenge? Before you start buying materials and digging up the ground or tearing out what might already exist; sit down, take a breath and do some thought work.
Everything begins with design and planning. What do I want to use it for? Do I want ground level or elevated, or even multi-level? Square, rectangular or curved? Do I want a hot tub or spa on it? Careful planning is the key to building a safe and enjoyable deck. Gather your ideas up, and then begin to sketch out your plan. The more thought you do before you pick up the hammer and saw, the how much is it to have a car repainted work you make for yourself.
The plan makes the design. I know what I want; now I have the fun of figuring out how to build it. The Building Department usually is very helpful and provides information about footingsbeams, guardrails, and stairs.
The building department should also identify if there are concerns regarding wind load, seismic issues, snow loads and soil conditions which may be unique to your location.
You should also check for any underground utility lines water, gas, power, communication, etc. With all these parameters I what does inta habibi mean deck design using Realtime Landscaping Architect. Required Tools Available on Amazon :.
Construct four or 6 Batter Board frames and hammer them into location. Use mason string or twine to outline and square the plan. The marking paint makes everything visible and marks the location of important building references. Batter boards and mason string used to square the layout. Marking paint outlines the layout. After making sure the marking paint and stakes were in the correct location, I was ready to dig the 6 holes. The deck will be attached to the house so the footings have to go below the frost line which is 4 ft.
A little mental math: 6 holes X 4 ft. No problem. I began digging one of the 2 holes closest to the house. It was hard packed sandy soil which had been partially backfilled and packed.
The first 2 feet went fairly well, but the deeper I went the less power I had. The Motorised Hydraulic Auger is a cantilevered affair so most of the torque goes into the machine and not the operator. I practiced on my how to have a great holiday party dug hole; tidying it up and widening it at the bottom and going a couple inches deeper. The 5 holes went much easier. My soil is sandy loam clay with small rocks so the auger worked well.
Make sure the holes are vertical to prevent frost from lifting against the concrete pier. If your soil is rocky you may want a helper or two. The auger will still do the job, but needs more weight at the auger end to continue to drill downward. If you have bed rock closer than the frost line, then bedrock is how deep you go. With the holes dug, I removed any loose dirt, what is reverb on a guitar amp then packed down the bottom as best I could.
I used the head of a sledge hammer reaching down the hole and tamping the bottom; more effective than a garden hoe. You want the bottom to be flat so the weight of the deck pushes on a flat surface. To provide some drainage I also tamped gravel into the bottom the holes; making sure I still had a depth of 4 ft. The sonotubes went into the holes next. Wooden wedges between the tube and the hole will work too.
Before filling the tubes with concrete, I cut 3 ft. The rebar provides additional strength to the concrete and a better foundation for your deck. I used an angle grinder to cut the rebar, it was easier. With everything ready, it was concrete time! I knew the 6 holes would take approximately 24 cubic feet of concrete, plus 2 extra for the part above ground level. A cubic yard is 27 cubic feet a cubic meter is Bags of ready to mix it would be.
I chose the high strength which cures to psi in a month. The minimum for a footing is psi, but psi is recommended. The instructions for mixing concrete are on the bag. It needs to be wet enough to slowly slump, but dry enough to stay mounded in the shovel. I could have what can cause flu like symptoms the concrete by shovel or with Lightning Pro concrete mixer in a wheelbarrow, how to make a curved deck or 3 bags at a time, but it would take longer.
Each footing would require a bit more than 8 bags, by mixing 4 at a time I could fill half a sonotube in two wheelbarrow moves. I began with the two closest to the house and then the single one. After filling half a sonotube, I pushed the shovel up and down in the tube a couple of times to remove air pockets. Once I had the tube full, I again used the shovel to remove any air pockets in the upper half, and then inserted the two rebar lengths.
After filling the first 3, I reset the mason line on the two closest to the house and inserted my favorite adjustable deck supports aligned with the string and centered in the tube. I did the same process with the last three footings.
I then cleaned everything up with the garden hose so the tools were as clean as before I started. To help slow the surface drying time and prevent flaking or cracking, I covered each tube with damp what are additives in food. I kept them damp for about 24 hours.
After everything had dried, I removed the batter boards and cleaned up the site. I rolled out landscape fabric over the whole are the deck would cover, and spread a 2 — 3 inch layer of gravel over it. To determine my material requirements I needed a more accurate measurement.
I attached a joist hanger to each end of the ledger plate, measuring to ensure they were positioned properly. This gave me a usable measurement to work with. I knew the deck surface would be 4 ft. To determine the length I would need for my posts I did a little math. The adjustable post brackets allow for any final adjustment. Pressure treated material is often high in moisture content due to being immersed in a chemical bath. As wet lumber dries, it can twist, split, or check.
Posts are often cut from the middle of a log so there are a number of things to look for when selecting posts. After checking along the length of the post for curves and twists, look at the end grain. If the core or pith is in the middle at both ends, or close to the middle, it will dry straighter. If there is no pith, look for grain tree growth rings that is close to parallel with one face of the post, it too will dry straighter.
I treated all cuts with a copper naphthenate—based preservative to protect the fresh wood, and to comply with the building code. Using a post level and braces, I leveled and secured the posts into position. I was now ready to build the beams.
When selecting dimension lumber for beams always look for straight planks; a curve or twist is difficult to straighten. If the plank has a slight crown, it is acceptable. I also cut the exposed end of the beam at a 45 degree angle; aesthetically it looks better but allows how to make a curved deck to drip off the beam easier.
Remember to treat all cuts with a copper copper naphthenate—based preservative. I used self-adhesive bitumen membrane and tar paper on top of posts to prevent water rotting the posts, and covered the top of the beams with the membrane to protect it from moisture.
I covered the top of each post with self-adhesive bitumen membrane and tar paper to prevent water entering and rotting the posts. The membrane or tar paper also prevents the copper in the how to make a curved deck preservative from eating the zinc in the galvanized metal brackets.
The new pressure treatment may be more environmentally friendly, but it eats the zinc up like a kid eats candy. Where the beam would sit on the galvanized brackets I also covered with the self-adhesive bitumen membrane. The ZMAX is supposed to better resist outdoor and pressure treated corrosion. How the beam is connected to the post is extremely important. The weight of the deck sits on the beams which transfers the force directly to the posts for support.
The connection has to keep the beam connected to the post, resist post and beam twisting, and prevent wind uplifts.
Marking Your Curve
Using a String To use a string to mark the curve on your joist ends first measure the width of the curve you intend to create, from one end to the other. At the edge of the deck, where your curve will be, mark the center of the curve’s width. Feb 2, - Learn how to build a deck with this comprehensive step by step guide. I will show you the best ways of building deck footings, framing, steps and more.
To frame an arch, or curve along the edge of your deck, your joists need to be long enough to cover the range of the curve. The curve itself can be laid out using a string, or light piece of lumber as a compass.
For this method follow the basic instructions for the string method, substituting a strip of lumber in place of the string. Cut the joists off following the marks you just made. Use a handsaw, or reciprocating saw with a coarse blade. Start your cut lined up with the top edge mark and use the marks on the faces of the joist to keep your blade aligned to the correct angle as you cut down through the joist.
Install Blocking between the joist ends along curves to prevent joist spacing from shifting. Cut your blocking pieces from joist materials and miter the ends so that each piece fits as close the ends of the joists as possible. Nail, or screw blocking in place by toe-nailing your fasteners through the mitered ends into your joists. Standard two by lumber does not bend well. If your curve is more than slight, you will need to work with something thinner.
You will need two layers to provide a ridged edge. For tighter curves, slice your framing material thinner and build it up. With multiple layers, apply wood glue between layers and use clamps along the face to laminate the pieces together. Attach your faceplate pieces with screws through the faceplate at each joist end with screws. Use at least three screws in each joist, top middle and bottom.
Do this with each layer, positioning screws in top layers so that they do not hit screws already installed. Use a countersink bit, so that screw heads will run in flush with the faceplate surface. The angles should be the same on both pieces. This creates a thin wedge at the end of both pieces, for a longer overlap. Glue and nail the overlap, then sand the joint smooth once the glue is set. If the curved edge of your deck is a step, or matches up to one, a skirt is needed underneath the edge of the deck faceplate.
Remember to use cedar for the top layer of curved faceplates on cedar decks for appearance. On composite decks, a layer of composite material should be installed on top of your curved faceplate. Stringers on curves will need to be set on an angle to the main frame, so that the stringer is as close to perpendicular with the faceplate as possible.
Install the faceplate as described for deck edges. Leave room for cedar, or composite if called for. Mark spaces and cut for deck lights, if called for. Composite decking companies, including Trex, often make color matched edge cladding that can be bent to fit curves. Use this if possible, rather than cutting composite material thinner to fit tight curves.
Install the front trim board, flush with the deck top, over your faceplate, using the same techniques. Decking boards cannot be bent to follow curves in the edge of the frame. Lay your deck boards to overlap faceplates and mark the curve as previously described, by running a pencil along the bottom face, against the face plate. Remove the marked boards, cut to fit and reinstall.
Use a jig saw or band saw for cutting the curves. Find Your Deck Plan. Log in Register. Cart: View your shopping cart. Search this site:. DIY Deck Plans. Framing an Arch or Curve on Your Deck. Pro Tip Composite decking companies, including Trex, often make color matched edge cladding that can be bent to fit curves. Hot Tubs. Outdoor Lighting. Tags: curves decking framing. Tutorials 1. Before You Begin 1. Deck Layout 3.
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